The Cyclists Guide to Bar Tape

There are only three points of contact a cyclist has with a bike: pedals, saddle, and handlebars. The most often neglected and least discussed seem to be handlebars and bar tape which covers them. Even seasoned cyclists who spend hours meticulously cleaning their drive train and bikes after every ride often leave dingy, tattered bar tape on their bike. Many fear they can't duplicate the perfect spiral wraps the manufacturer installed. However, it's not complicated at all, and can make a tremendous difference in comfort while riding. Changing bar tape each season is a good way to freshen up the feel and look of your bike.

The first decision is which bar tape to choose. Bar tape comes in many different options. The biggest difference lies in the thickness of the tape. Thicker tape promotes more shock absorption and dampens road buzz. Thinner tape promotes greater feedback and road feel. There are also gel pad kits available which go underneath bar tape to further dampen road vibrations. My bar tape of choice is Fizik's Microtex. The tape strikes a balance between road feel and comfort. Since it is thin, it provides good road feel, but the soft suede texture is very comfortable on long rides. The downside to it - installation is difficult since it doesn't stretch very well and the tape itself is very short. There is just barely enough length to get the bars wrapped unlike other brands.

Fizik's Microtex is my favorite bar tape.

The only tools required are a pair of scissors, electrical tape, and some patience. Although it's not necessary, a bike stand will help maintain tension while wrapping. An extra pair of hands can also be substituted. If you don't have either, your bars can be wrapped with the bike leaning against a wall. One hint, before you begin, take a picture of your bar tape so you can easily refer to the direction the tape runs. Directions often refer to clockwise, counter clockwise, topwise, above, and below. All these directions can be pretty vague when you're standing with naked bars and no frame of reference. Taking a picture makes it easy to refer back and be sure you're doing things right.

The first step is removing the old tape. Flip the rubber cover back on the brifter hoods and begin unwrapping from the center of the bars. At the base, remove the bar plugs. Note the overlap of the tape tucked into the end of the bars. This is an important step to repeat for a clean, finished look. Some tape has adhesive backing to help it stick, if yours does be sure that any residue is cleaned completely off the bar.

Once the bar is clean start at the base and allow about half the width of the tape to hang over the edge. From here, begin wrapping up the bar, overlapping the tape about half the width of the tape as you go. If your tape has adhesive backing, pull about a foot off at a time. The most important thing to remember in this step is tension. Pull as hard as you can on the tape without tearing it. This allows for a smooth layer of tape throughout the contours of the bar. Continue until you arrive at the hoods.

At the brake hoods, it's time for a decision. Most kits come with a two or three inch piece of bar tape meant to go behind the hoods and prevent any naked bar from peeking through. I've found it's not really necessary. Simply wrap as closely as you can to the bar hoods. Then the most difficult part of wrapping your bars - transitioning from the drops to the tops. Keeping tension on the bars, pull over onto the top of the hoods. If you wrap tightly and very close to the hoods, none of the bar will show.

The trickiest part of the process is ensuring the hoods are covered.

Continue wrapping the tops all the way until the end. At the very end, take the last length of tape and cut it on a diagonal so it lays perfectly flat with the bars. Finish off with some black electrical tape. Kits often come with strips of tape for finishing the bars. I've found this stuff rarely sticks well and usually isn't long enough. Some black electrical tape is much more effective. Last step, tuck the overlapped tape into the end of the bars and install the bar plug.

The end result is clean, even coverage throughout your bars.

Wrapping your bars is not terribly difficult, but it does take some practice to achieve mastery. The good thing is, if you find along the way that something isn't quite right, simply unwrap and try again. Changing out your tape is a great way to stave off boredom when it's too rainy to ride. Moreover, the satisfaction you get from wrapping your own bar tape is well worth the minimal effort required.

Tips for a New Roadie Part 3 - Accessorize

Now you've picked out the frame and groupset that's perfect for you and your budget. However, you're not done yet. Don't forget to budget in some of the items that aren't included in the bike, but are essential for happy cycling.

First and foremost on your list should be a helmet. I am a helmet advocate. Do helmets conclusively protect cyclists? Some studies say yes, others no. However, to me any piece of padding you can include between yourself and the hard ground is well worth it. The good thing about bicycle helmets is they are all certified by the same CPSC standard in the US. So in theory a $20 helmet should protect you as well as $200 helmet. If you're looking for a way to save a little cash, this is an item where a less expensive model can be used. What separates more expensive helmets from cheaper ones are lighter weights and better ventilation. It's a good idea to take these into account, as comfort can be very important during long rides in hot climates. The Specialized Echelon is a great helmet for entry level riders. It has the same shape and ventilation system as the $200 S-Works, is lightweight, has a great adjustment system, and costs just $60.

The Specialized Echelon is a great choice for a first helmet

The next item on your purchase list should be pedals and shoes. Your new bike will likely come with plastic pedals equipped with toe clips. These are fine on short rides. However on longer rides they can lead to numb toes and don't promote an efficient pedal stroke. "Clipless pedals," so named because they lack toe clips, are the ones you actually clip into. Since your feet are connected to the pedal you can not only push down, but also pull up on creating a more efficient pedal stroke as well as recruiting the hamstrings to share some of the burden. Stiff soled cycling shoes help prevent numb toes and ensure that all pushing or pulling energy your feet exert help to move the crank. Pedals and shoes are the one accessory that will actually make you faster. Shimano's 105 pedal is a great entry level road pedal. They are easy to clip and out of and the wide base gives a nice solid platform to prevent hot spots. Although the cleat might need to be replaced every season, it doesn't require the maintenance Speedplay cleats do. A careful shopper can find them for $60-80 at various online outlets. Shoes are an item of great personal preference, so I am hesitant to recommend a brand or model. Any stiff soled shoe will do as long as it fits and is comfortable. This is one item you should try before you buy. Most cycling shoes use Euro sizing, so the size of your tennis shoes will probably be different from your cycling shoes.

Shimano's 105 Pedals are a great entry level option

While a Camelbak might be perfectly appropriate for mountain biking, it's faux pas on a road bike. Water bottles and cages are a must. Rides can last for hours so it's important to keep your body well hydrated along the way. Fortunately this doesn't have to be anything fancy. Unless you want to shave every ounce off your bike, skip the fancy carbon cages and stick with aluminum ones. Throw in a couple of cheap water bottles and your setup is complete. A savvy negotiator should be able to negotiate these in as freebies when they purchase their bikes. If you can't, this shouldn't cost more than $15.

Along the same lines, while cycling you're bound to have a flat someday and you should be prepared to fix them yourself. Any cyclist worth his salt has a seat bag filled with a spare tube, patch kit, and some sort of inflation system (either CO2, a hand pump, or both). A portable multi-tool is also a good idea in case a bolt may need tightening along the way.

A proper pair of cycling shorts is another item I wouldn't leave the store without. Cycling shorts like helmets are another item which can get very expensive. However, this is an area where I wouldn't substitute for quality. A good pair of cycling shorts has a comfortable chamois which takes pressure off your sit bones. A quality lycra that compresses your leg muscles can help stave off fatigue. Bib shorts offer the added benefit of not having a waist band that digs into your side and the shoulder straps hold the chamois in place better than standard shorts.

All told, these items can add up. However, now is the season to buy since deep discounts can be had as 2009 models are closed out. Also, there are always deals on websites like Bonktown and Chain Love which offer 50-80% off items. Other companies like Competitive Cyclist offer deals only announced on their twitter feeds. The accessories you choose can contribute to a pleasant cycling experience just as much as a bike, so careful selection is a worthwhile investment. If you can't stand the numbness in your toes or the pain in your butt, the best bike in the world won't solve those problems.